Burberry chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci marked his debut collection with a narrative titled ‘Kingdom’ imbued with London’s punk roots and posh sensibilities.
The new creative director of Burberry, Riccardo Tisci, managed to enter with a bang: he changed the logo and identity of the brand, placed a new monogram everywhere, held the first drop of the capsule collection and gave up fur. Even without all that we were expecting quite a lot from the ready-to-wear debut collection, this made us expect even more.
The mother of the 44-year-old designer sitting on the front row could not hold back her tears. It was a success. Ricardo decided not to fail to impress. Having secured the support of some top models – Irina Shayk, Natalia Vodianova, Kendall Jenner, Stella Tennant, Mariacarla Boscono and Freja Beha Erichsen, as well as Massive Attack soundtrack, the designer created a debut collection that could find its consumer anywhere. Here are the hypebeast necklaces, the elegant pencil skirts, the classic trench coats, the hooligan striped shorts. What to choose from all of this – you decide! – this is the new policy of Tisci.
‘The designer hit all the notes in his debut, beginning with a selection of elevated daytime looks that represented the Tisci’s Burberry woman: cool and refined, with a dash of insouciance. The second look was a sheer, collared dress, covered in the new Peter Saville-designed Thomas Burberry monogram pattern, named for the house’s founder. Five looks in, he unveiled the reinvented Burberry check on a zip blouse: vertical stripes in the Burberry colors, which would be later seen in the show as horizontal stripes. Then came a trench adorned with hoops at the edges, the ladylike pussycat-bow blouses, and a prim cream blazer—updated with reverse sleeve buttons, and a new take on the fanny pack in the form of dainty handbags wrapped around the waist with a gold chain and marked with a gilded Thomas Burberry monogram at the closure. Next came the men’s suiting, outfitted with Tisci’s touches—the famed Burberry umbrella was given a chained holster, and hung across the body; a button-up knit band went around the chest; and an trompe l’oeil pocket on the left breast of a white-collared shirt added a dose of edge’, – Ann Binlot.
What would be presented during the show was kept a big secret, and the intrigue was kept until the last second. Guests had to walk to their seats before the show using the flashlights on their phones. When the light was switched on and the ceiling of the South London Mail Centre (very unusual location for Burberry!) was opened, all guests received a gift in the form of a silk handkerchief.
Some of the limited edition items from the presentation went on sale at the Regents street flagship store, which was revamped before the debut collection screening, and only opened for elite clients of the brand. The full new collection will go on sale in January 2019.
We wonder what did Christopher Bailey think of the debut collection? And what did you think of Riccardo Tisci’s take on Burberry?
Text: Irina Gorskaia
Images: Elle, Evening Standard