To celebrate a decade of designer Simon Porte Jacquemus’ empowering, contemporary and unmistakably French label, we take a look through his impressive archives and highlight 10 defining shows, collections and campaigns.
Conceived when he was just 19, Jacquemus is the brainchild of Simon Porte Jacquemus, a French designer with a burning passion for his native country whose collections and campaigns are dripping with French aesthetics and playful artistic imagery.
As the label celebrated it’s 10th anniversary with the ‘Le Coup De Soleil’ SS20 show in the south of France last week, we rummaged through the archives to find the ten moments that have defined the life and art of Jacquemus.
We had to start our list with this: the designer debuted the Le Chiquito, a miniature top handle purse, during his SS18 show and with it followed no shortage of lust, awe and admiration. The micro bag breathed new life into the already emerging tiny handbag trend and was soon seen in the hands of Rihanna and Kim Kardashian.
Willi Dorner inspires Jacquemus
Jacquemus ensured that the AW16 campaign did anything but conform to industry norms, particularly the strict formality of French fashion. After being inspired by Willi Dorner’s ‘Bodies in Urban Spaces’ project, the designer enlisted the help of several models who piled on top of each other on a Parisian bench, creating a tongue-in-cheek yet incredibly memorable campaign.
The designer collaborates again, but this time with Chloe Wise
Jacquemus’ artistic campaigns are second to none and the SS19 campaign – which saw artist Chloe Wise paint a picture-perfect depiction of the collection and its Riviera-inspired ambience – was one of the most beautiful to date.
A different direction
In comparison to his back catalogue and recent collections, the SS16 show had a more sombre tone than any other. Jacquemus encapsulated the somewhat solemn creations with a simple comment made backstage: “The Jacquemus girl lost her smile.” The most unforgettable moment of the show which never fails to induce goosebumps was when the designer himself led a white horse down the darkened runway.
His Menswear Debut
In 2018, Jacquemus debuted his very first menswear collection entitled ‘La Gadjo.’ For the unveiling, the Marseille-born designer chose to return to his birthplace, putting on a beautifully intimate show to an exclusive selection of editors, buyers and friends. When speaking to GQ about his inspirations for the collection, Jacquemus said: “It’s about the cliché of Marseille that I love. From the gypsy to the swimmer, to this guy who’s just come out of soccer, to another who’s going to a wedding with his sunflower shirt.” The designer succeeded in creating menswear for every man.
The Sandals that Shaped a Career
The Les Rond Carrè sandals are beautifully unique and quintessentially Jacquemus. Despite the shoes being one of the designer’s earlier creations, the style which marries square and circular shapes put an endlessly modern yet playful twist on the staple block heel.
Le Chapeau Bomba
Yet again proving himself to be the master of accessorising, Jacquemus’ Le Chapeau Bomba made its inaugural outing at the SS18 show, proving that no hat is ever too big. Danish actress and model Emma Leth decided to ditch a traditional veil for her 2018 wedding, instead opting for the oversized straw hat which perfectly finished off her ethereal bridal look.
The AW16 Campaign
Jacquemus’ AW16 campaign featured childhood images of the designer himself and his muses, model Philippine Chaumont and DJ Clara 3000, placed over block-coloured backgrounds. The inventive campaign bypassed expectations of showcasing an upcoming collection and instead positioned the brand identity and creativity front and centre.
The 10th Anniversary Show
Jacquemus returned to his motherland, the south of France, for his 10th anniversary SS20 show and it instantly became an iconic fashion moment. Set in a picturesque lavender field in Provence, the entire celebration was made for Instagram – a clever technique the designer’s creations constantly tap into with accessories and atmospheres that make every collection a social media phenomenon. Models walked along a hot pink runway surrounded by soft and sensual purple flowers wearing the effortless bohemian collection which benefited from a partnership with Swarovski.
Speaking of Social Media…
While not a show, collection or campaign in its own right, Jacquemus’ Instagram account serves as an inventive and creative way of fusing the three together. Revelling in site’s layout, the brand’s Instagram is known for featuring rows of three similar or identical images, combining behind-the-scenes photos of his creations with candid selfies and snapshots of his inspirations, letting his fans and followers peer into the sun-soaked world of Simon Porte Jacquemus.
Happy 10th Anniversary to Jacquemus – we cannot wait to see what is to come in the next ten years.
Tell us about your favourite Jacquemus moment in the comments below.
Text: Jo Bentham
Images: Twitter, WWD, Milk, Instagram, Facebook, Dazed