The Italian fashion capital hosted some incredibly innovative collections this season from industry giants like Fendi to newcomers such as GCDS. Read on to find out the Backstage lowdown on Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer ’19.
Time for Celebration
Missoni toasted to sixty-five years whilst Etro celebrated fifty this season, with both labels exhibiting collections with finesse and meaning. Similarly to Riccardo Tisci for Burberry, many collections aimed to please the everyday working woman, focusing on craftsmanship and comfort. Anna Wintour commented that the fashion houses “really captured the mood of the moment…I think the phrase came from one of our editors, which was considered casual, and I think that really did sum up so many of the collections. To me, they were very happy, very joyous, and very wearable.”
And they weren’t the only people celebrating. Versace blew out forty candles this season with a collection full of marvellous colours and beautiful prints as both the models and the clothes exuded a powerful confidence. One year ago, Donnatella paid tribute to twenty years since her brother Gianni’s passing by reuniting the iconic 90’s supermodels in co-ordinating slinky metallic dresses, so this season had a lot to live up to. This collection felt more pedestrian. It was far from bad, but overall it wasn’t anything overtly different to what the house of Versace has mastered over the years. The news that Versace had been bought for $2.1 billion by Michael Kors is perhaps the new direction that the brand needs.
On Yer Bike!
Whether you love them or hate them, cycling shorts are not going anywhere anytime soon. Cavalli took the sportswear staple and covered them in their signature zebra print, Prada contrasted theirs with feminine silk blouses and Belgian label A.F. Vandervorst made them the “something new” to a bridal ensemble.
Back to the Drawing Board
Moschino’s SS19 ensembles were based around the designs sketches themselves, specifically a scribble motif. This was not due to laziness or lack of inspiration, but quite the contrary as a reaction to the overpowering pressure designers face every season. Creative director Jeremy Scott commented that “Fashion is going too fast! There’s a cruise collection after another collection, you have another show, and a capsule…I couldn’t get it done this season! All I have are sketches! So, I’m showing you the sketches of the collection.”
The latest trend? The tri-boob.
GCDS, standing for God Can’t Destroy Streetwear, used prosthetics on models to give them three breasts at their SS19 collection. Founded in 2015 by Giuliano Calza, the designer commented “We’re a young group here — we’re all under 30 — and I wanted to talk to people our age about the future and get them thinking about plastics, water shortage and the environment,” he said. “Full sustainability is impossible, and I wanted this show to be a wake-up call.” Speaking of calls, many on social media were quick to share how the tri-boob was reminiscent of a scene in cult 90s film Total Recall.
Logomania maintains its reign
Announcing a collaboration with FILA earlier this year, it was still monogram galore at Fendi this season. Opened by Adwoa Aboah, the show also used colour-of-the-moment tangerine orange in abundance for Spring/Summer ’19.
And finally, it isn’t Milan Fashion Week without Dolce & Gabbana
The show had an inclusive model casting, with supers such as Helena Christensen, new-age icons like Ashley Graham and mother-daughter duos gracing the catwalk. The collection was entitled ‘DNA’ and featured exactly what the legend of D&G is so renowned for: ornately embellished gowns, luxurious tailoring and vivid printed ensembles. It was not too dissimilar from seasons past, but, if you have already bought into the brand’s DNA (see what I did there), this collection will be a feast for the eyes.
Who showcased your favourite collection this MFW?
Text: Natalie Zannikos
Images: Hollywood Reporter, VOGUE, Getty, Sara Cimino, HUFF Post