Paris Fashion Week Luxury designers were on top of their game for the finale of SS18 Fashion Week this year, with designers such as Givenchy, Christian Dior, Balenciaga and Off-White. The extravagance of these collections had the world’s media total attention.
Givenchy kept to high standards with a collection of sophisticated looks as the models showcased a pallet of monochrome and darker shades of burgundy and navy. Finding a balance between sharp tailoring and sporty vibes is something Givenchy isn’t playing into, being one of the only designers not to be ‘in’ fashion at the moment. All textiles were mixed from edgy leather jackets to silk armless shirts paired with denim. The looks were loose fitting yet flirtatious none the less, remaining suave and ready to suit any occasion.
Virgil Abloh’s Off-White has been an up and coming brand with popular influence in the streetwear world, collaborations are still up and coming with their most recent, and famous being with Nike kicks selling at retail price for £600. Being one of our favourite shows in Paris yet, Off-White had elegance down to a ‘T’ with futuristic pieces being presented down the runway. 90’s Shades were thrown with many of the looks to present a cool and edgy vibe. Oversized handbags and scarfs were used to add to many of the floral pieces including suits and maxi-dresses.
“Blazers- we just need them. For this time in history that has gotten so chaotic and so divisive and so sordid, I think we need to polish it up a little bit.”
– Rick Owen.
Rick Owen, the most famous for dramatic tailoring and loud construction again stole the show with an outside run-way for his models. Wearing oversized textiles with individual leg warmers or gloves to even out the balance of shapes and heavier materials, a pallet of creams, monochromes and greens helped to create a clean-cut collection. Double-breasted jackets formed in a box shape were used to inspire similar panelling and cropping. The idea behind the collection demonstrates abstract structure as opposed to ready-to-wear.
Balenciaga, again, another popular designer who recently collaborated with Vetements (launching the designer’s profile), who admittedly is one of his now biggest inspirations. Stunningly high silver knee-high boots, tapestry art imprinted onto tailored trousers with pops of colour, bum-bags wore over the shoulder for a forward-thinking approach and patent fabrics used for boxed tops while large fitting jackets take up a whole outfit. Creatively the designer encouraged looks to appear fresh as he had several pieces stitched together to create one item of clothing… similar to the vibe of AW17. Still genius though!
Inspired by Maria Grazia this season, Christian Dior lived up to expectations with a large audience either side of the catwalk for a popular turnout. Those sat at the front, having been given a free copy of feminist art historian Linda Nochlin’s essay “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?”. Models demonstrated a party-vibe with contrasting monochrome and sunny yellows, even tinted sunglasses were used to liven up the pieces. Tailored suits with heeled boots kept to traditional Dior values while black and white check was a new choice of pattern in response to its recent popularity amongst streetwear. An 80’s influence overshadowed the entire show with mesh and netting underlying almost every outfit.
What did you think of PFW’s luxury collections this season?
Images: We Believe in Design, 10, Givenchy Offical, Wonderland Magazine, Fashion Fix Daily, Reuters
Text: Ellie Botti