After 12 years and 93 collections created in the house of Givenchy, Italian fashion designer Riccardo Tisci has decided to quit. Tisci, being known for his gothic, sensual and subversive collections in both men and women’s divisions, left the house on the 31st of January once his contract had ended. As rumours intensify he may be joining Versace, what is the real reason behind his departure? And how will it affect ex brand Givenchy’s future collections?
Where it all started
Growing up surrounded by his widowed mother and eight sisters Riccardo Tisci revealed he had always been surrounded by conversations of clothes, hair, makeup and nails which fascinated him and became his biggest interest as a child. Situated in Taranto, southern Italy, the eighties were a heady time for fashion, thus Tisci became influenced by the boom years of famous brands such as Versace, Armani and Valentino despite being too poor to partake in them. He went on to carry out work experience in an Italian textile firm until he went on to study and graduated from London’s Central Saint Martin’s Academy in 1999. He worked on his own label during this period until returning to Milan and staging his own fashion show which sealed his role as creative director for Givenchy.
The Givenchy Journey
As the creative director of the Haute Couture and ready-to-wear and accessories lines for Givenchy, Tisci created collections which reflected his personal interests such as romanticism and sensuality. Many of these lines highly stylized in terms of architecture and space, through use of graphic sports-wear inspired garments. His collections appear to have distinctive melancholic undertones something he aimed to achieve as he states how Italian designers never experimented with the theme of ‘The Gothic’ and ‘Darkness.’ In 2010 his unique style became apparent after casting transgender model, Lea T, in one of his shows. A unique and controversial move he took to break down gender restrictions in the fashion industry.
Why leave Givenchy?
On the 31st of January when his contract ended, Tsici made his exit from the LVMH-owned couture house stating “I have very special affection for the House of Givenchy and its beautiful teams.” He also commented on how the position aided him in expressing his creativity yet his departure will allow him to firmly focus on personal interests of his. Because of his departure, Givenchy will not present during Paris Fashion Week and the brand aim to appoint a new creative director at a later date.
What does the Future hold for Tisci?
Rumours say he will possibly be moving towards working with Versace where he’ll take up the position of creative director currently filled by Donatella Versace. Although Givenchy denied these rumours, the Italian house has suggested an expansion plan which comes as no surprise since Versace has been known for keeping an eye on Tisci. With Donatella Versace even appearing in Givenchy’s 2015 Autumn/winter campaign, it is clear that her and Tisci are close friends.
Text: Sophia Georghiou
Images: Maciek Kobielski, Justin Teodoro, NYTimes, Hypebeast, Harpers Bazaar, SOCIAL MAGAZINE