What is Paris without the Eiffel Tower? According to the creative director of Saint Laurent Anthony Vaccarello – very little. The famous landmark stood as the backdrop for the Spring/Summer 2019 ready-to-wear show, yet in true Saint Laurent fashion there were also some palms around – a clear reference to North Africa that Yves Saint Laurent was so inspired by.
Biographers of Yves Saint Laurent remember when Paloma Picasso entered the couturier’s studio. She was the daughter of the famous artist and the main jewellery designer. Saint Laurent briefly glanced at her turban with feathers and a dress with broad shoulders that she bought at a flea market and christened her his muse.
Later, in his ‘Scandal’ collection in 1971 the designer presented bright coats and outfits with feathers that Paloma wore day in and day out. Her style also influenced Anthony Vaccarello. Yves particle still has not been re-added back to the brand name, but the designer does not stop digging into the brand’s archives. In addition to citations of Paloma’s style, the influence of Marrakech – translucent caftans and leopard swimsuits – is highlighted in the Spring/Summer ’19 collection.
I also was highly impressed by the cinematographic references in the show. The models – Rossana Latallada, Sarah Brannon, Abbey Lee Kershaw, Freja Beha Erichsen, Kaia Gerber, Adut Akech, Binx Walton and others – once again walked against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower and palms. Yet another reference to North Africa.
“Beyond fresh complexions and groomed brows, uniformity was not a calling card for tonight’s catwalk. Makeup legend Tom Pecheux dreamed up a myriad of looks that ran the gamut from no makeup-makeup to punctuated pops of color. There were the ultra-saturated stamps of red lipstick that brightened up the porcelain complexions of girls like Cooper, while at eye-level, a tribe of women had vibrant, yellow pigment swept across the lids like urban war paint. And for a truly more-is-more moment, Ewers received graphic, heavy-handed flicks of kohl liner that catapulted her accompanied deep crimson pout,” – Vogue UK commented on beauty at Saint Laurent SS19.
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Text: Irina Gorskaia
Images: Giovanni Gianonni/WWD