When presenting her first Autumn/Winter menswear collection ever in the short film Black Park, Stella McCartney shows how a confusion in memory and time can provide her collection with deeper meaning.
This month Stella McCartney launched her first autumn/winter menswear collection ever in the short film Black Park. This short displays a collaboration between the British designer and the director, Sean Ellis. Previously Ellis has directed movies such as Anthropoid about World War II and Metro Manila, a crime drama that is set in the Philippines. McCartney says that she has known Ellis forever, and when he and Cillian Murphy, the only actor in Black Park and one of the actors in Anthropoid, showed up to McCartney’s launching of her menswear collection last November, they decided to do something together. Two weeks later, they were filming in a forest on the outskirts of London.
The film begins with Murphy laying on the ground in the woods looking up at the trees. From there the movie jumps between shots of an odd lighting installation and the protagonist wandering through the woods.
Ellis manages to provide this short movie with David Lynch-style features, where the audience cannot be sure what memories are set in the past and what are set in the present. As the actor continues his journey, he is suddenly arriving at a cabin in a clearing. As a memory, Murphy is shown standing in the doorway of the cabin at night. Afterwards, the cabin is on fire, and the character is shown both running and walking back to the forest.
The collection featured in the movie consists of several pieces of traditional tailoring in earth colours. The aspect of traditional tailoring is a characteristic of McCartney. “She is known for her signature style of sharp tailoring, natural confidence and sexy femininity, and her venture into menswear is no different,” said Romey Louangvilay, Chief Curator and Director of Digital Marketing at Curate Directive, New York.
Also, a shot in the video shows a close-up of a classic suit-button, stuck to a tree, which may symbolise the importance of the details of tailoring in her design.
The soundtrack featured in the movie was created by her own father and famous Beatles-member, Paul McCartney. She wanted something unusual to combine both sound and vision, and knew that her father could do it.
The element of mixing past and present may echo the bringing of classic tailoring together with unexpected textures. In addition, the video captures the masculine silhouette, which McCartney understands to be complex to capture from multiple angles. She is telling the story of a male consumer, who is confident in who he is, but who also has desire to explore, enjoying the details in his clothes and in its movements. On the other hand, she is showing that this man is not perfect, that these clothes are for the middle-class gentleman and the everyman.
This abstract way of displaying her collection is a new venture for Stella McCartney, but we really hope she’ll continue to intrigue us by uniting fashion, film and mystery.
Text: Synne Krogstad
Images: Youtube, Vogue, The Daily Beast